I didn't think that wave was going to offer a ton, ... But the wave just held form, and I was able to get a lot out of it.
I was stuck for 16 months without a win there, and now I've had five this year. Once you break that barrier for yourself it makes it easier; you're not thinking about it... It opened up the floodgate for me.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
Well I'm always working on constantly everything. I never take the approach that I'm doing as well as I possibly can... I always think there's more and I think if you don't have that, you are not driven to be better.
Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.