A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.
Now is the time to determine whether or not it will be a two-horse race for the title,
When I started surfing, I'd forget about everyone and everything and just go out and surf, ... I surfed by myself, but surfing has allowed me to have friends around the world. It's an exciting time for me and I'm having fun. That's probably why I'm surfing so well.